Shahjahan’s “Moorti” and Other Absurdities in Agra

Agra, the city of Taj, is supposed to be a showpiece for the nation. It is the ultimate destination for both domestic and foreign tourists and rightly so being host to the monument of love. But a recent visit to Agra reveals a scarred city which on the verge of collapse.

Destitution, hunger, poverty, and ignorance are prevalent in the city. This is the normal fare in any Indian city one might say. For some reason it is more prominent traveling on the pot holed lanes with open drains in Agra. Maybe it is a case of high expectations meeting hard reality. What is even more disturbing is the widening divide between the various communities. Just talking to the car and auto drivers, waiters, and the common man on the street reveals a complete ignorance about each other. There is a marked emphasis on caste and community. Some areas are clearly marked as no-go and the taxi drivers simply refuse to go there.

One example of the disconnect between the various communities came as a shock in Taj Mahal itself. Winding our way to the Taj amidst the unruly serpentine lines we entered the Taj premises to be given a pat down by the security staff. As we entered the monument there were maddening crowds trying to enter the dark sanctum-sanctorum which was lighted by the flicker of a lone candle. As we completed a round of the premises and stopped to recite Fatiha for the souls of Shahjahan and Mumtaz Mahal a screeching voice shattered the humming calm. “Yahan par Shahjahan ki Moorti hai (Here is the idol of Shahjahan),” said a well dressed young man to his companion pointing towards the graves. In a nation where Muslims are found in visible numbers almost everywhere such marked ignorance about their beliefs and practices was indeed shocking.

As we vacated the monument it was time for Maghrib prayers and we proceeded to the mosque. Once again we saw the defilement of the sacred premises of the mosque by group of whistling youth lazing by the water tank with their legs suspended in water. We completed our ablutions and proceeded towards the Mimbar only to pass by a saffron robed figure hurriedly pacing through the corridor. He appeared to be a sufi. But right at the time of sunset he walked up to the Minbar and began reciting vedic chants. His vermillion mark more visible this time. The assembled congregants challenged him as to what he was doing he replied that he is reciting ‘Om.’ When asked if he knows that this is a mosque he replied in the affirmative and asked, “Does it matter if I recite the name of God in Arabic or Sanskrit?”

When I asked if he wouldn’t mind if we call the Adhan from a Mandir he gave an unintelligible cry and ran outside to to be joined by his associates who seeing the skull capped crowd gathering took off. They were clearly trouble as the regulars said that they have noticed several such incidents in recent days.

The experience at Taj Mahal premises reveal that if the society and the authorities are not vigilant then there is one more Ayodhya in the offing. It won’t be too far fetched to presume that the unruly crowds and saffron robed sadhus will try to bring to fruition the dreams of lunatics like P.N.Oak. The latter it maybe recalled had advanced the fantastic theory that the Taj Mahal was a Shiva temple.

To make matters worse the mosque in the Taj Mahal premises is in a dilapilated condition with no adequate lighting, security, and maintenance. It is staffed by a single hereditary Imam whose monthly salary is Rs.15.

As we found our way in the emerging darkness towards the exit I turned around for one last glance at the Taj which looked sadder than ever. The following lines of Sahir Ludhianvi ringed in the ears:

Ek Shahenshah Ne Daulat ka Sahara Lekar Hum Gharibon Ki Mohabbat ka Udaya Hai Mazaq

(An emperor on the strength of wealth, Has played with us poor a cruel joke)

I was awakened from my reflections by a hard push from behind. A few youngsters were running after a foreign tourist. They were harassing her to let them take a picture with her on their mobile phone cameras. It was then that I realized what a cruel turn history has taken. The joke was not on the poor but on Shahjahan himself.