Basant - Lahori isshytle

So people in Lahore had been asking each other about plans for Basant for the past one week...the conversation went something like this: ’so what are you doing for Basant?’...and the response would be ’oh nothingggg, it’s so crowded, it’s been taken over by these multinationals, and uff those peopleeee who come in hordes from Islamabad, sheikhupura, gujranwala etc...total choas...i’m going to sit at home and watch TV or something’. Of course, by the time Basant rolled around this weekend, pretty much everyone was outside, mingling among the non-Lahoris, the sprinkling of goras and the white shalwar kameez clad Sheikhupura-Faislabad crowd :)

It all started out pretty well...a couple of friends decided to meet up and go to an event at the Lahore Fort...by the time evening rolled around, that’s all everyone was talking about. I got the feeling it would be really crowded so I was anxious. I’m not a very ’crowd’ person and if I have my way, I’d sit out an evening where there are going to be too many people around. But there was no backing out at the last minute, so after getting several sms and phone calls about the kind of traffic Inner City has, I picked up a friend and off we went to the Fort. To say the traffic was crazy is an understatement but we reached early, at 7:15ish so we managed to avoid the really maddening crowd that was to come later. Happy at having reached on time, we entered the beautifully lit Fort and got to our table, only to find that there was nothing going on except for rehearsals. Models were walking the ramp, practicing for the fashion show that was supposed to have started at 7 sharp. The place was slowly filling up but most of the seats were empty so far.

‘Umm…patangein kidher hain?’ I asked my friend.

‘Who flies kites anymore?’ she replied.

Still, the idea of being on a Basant event without kites was too much to digest. However, I looked around and saw that at another corner, there were indeed kites and people (a handful) were flying them, which was a relief.

We sat at our table and waited for the show to start…and waited…and waited…and waited…8 o clock rolled around, then 9, then 9:30, 10…the place was filling up and by the time 10 o clock came, there were at least 5000 people inside. Guys, girls, uncles, aunties, kids, everyone was roaming around, trying to find a place to sit. People had started complaining about the fact that a show that was supposed to start at 7 had not begun by even 10. We all realized that it must be due to some ‘Jangrail Sahab’ who was expected to show up and was late, as usual, making everyone else wait. Finally, after a lot of waiting, the show started.

Goonga Sayein along with Overload took to the stage. I’d never heard them live and it was quite an experience, especially when, in the middle of the dhamaal, Goonga Sayein started whirling…and wouldn’t stop! By this time I had started to realize that despite the fact that I was tired, hungry (STARVING, rather) and getting a little wary of the crowd that was gathering behind me, the evening could be fun all the same.

After the performance there was another lull in the evening. Humaira Arshad had apparently failed to show up. By this time the place was full to the brim and there was an eerie mob mentality building up. A friend was supposed to join us but he was stuck outside. The gates were closed because apparently hundreds of people had ‘gate-crashed’ about an hour back when the gate had been opened for a few people with legitimate passes, so now the gates were closed and there was no coming in.

Nickie and Nina’s fashion show started. And so did the whistling, commenting, jostling, cheering…the clothes were pretty good but by that time everyone was so tired that they just wanted the music to start. When Humaira Arshad finally showed up and took to the stage, we decided to leave. With her high-pitched Punjabi singing and the already crazy dudes at the back, who knows what could’ve happened! Apparently there were more performances coming up, of Indian singer Sukhbir as well as Annie, Atif and Shafqat Amanat Ali but we didn’t have the energy to sit tight for another 3 hours. Besides, it was 11:15 already and we knew getting out would be a problem. Anticipating a crazy crowd outside, we decided to get the escort of some guys we knew, who happily obliged.

When we reached the gates, the police wouldn’t let us go out because going out meant that people from the outside would come in. So we decided to go out from another door. Our entourage consisted of about 20 people, mostly families including kids who were on their way out and who were re-directed to another entrance of the Fort. A friend who was with me kept trying to spook me out all the way to the door, saying that spirits of soldiers kings were roaming about the Fort at night. There were no lights and the place really was spooky. In the absence of light, it was easy to imagine shadows in this place which was thousands of years old.

‘The kings’ spirits have a special liking for tall girls. Tum zara bach ke raho’, my friend kept teasing me. Tired, hungry and a little spooked, all I wanted to do was kick him. But all I ended up saying was ‘shut up’.

Finally we reached the gate that was supposed to take us outside. The place was pitch black. Instantly mobile phone lights were switched on, including mine. We reached the massive gate which at one point must have been opened for the kings of that time and manned by strong, scary guards. Now, however, it was just dark and solid. And locked.

‘haiiii darwaza kholeinnn, humaray bachay darr rahay hain’

‘aap ko kis nay kaha tha bachay layein saath?’

‘ooo spooky, woh dekho sobia tumharay peechay aik badrooh khari hai’

‘yaar koi guard ko bulaayyy’

‘oyeeeeeee oyeee darwaza khol oyeeee’

‘amiiiiiiiiiiiiii’
There seemed to be a festive mood even in the dark. There were at least 30 people behind us now, in one of the creepiest (if that’s a word) parts of the ancient Lahore Fort. The huge doors were locked and the walk back was too long. All we wanted was to get out. Finally, two guards came but they wouldn’t open the door, thinking that there would be a huge crowd outside dying to get in. Finally, they relented when people started pleading. We rushed outside and facing us was the huge courtyard of the Lahore Fort, all lit up. It was breathtaking. One of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen…laughing with relief, we rushed towards yet another gate, got out, retrieved the poor guy who was standing outside waiting for us, went to McDonald’s to have a bite to eat and finally went home at 2 am.

Lahore was celebrating Basant all through the night, I hear. The traffic was horrendous, with people just loitering around listening to loud music. I didn’t see many kites, just lots of people…floods of people on the streets and on the rooftops…it was one big party. I’m not sure if I quite want to ‘celebrate’ Basant like this again, but it sure beats sitting at home, watching TV!